Néféli Journal of the Great Atlantic Crossing May – June 2008

Logbook sent by email on a daily basis, and extracts from Marie-Françoise's diary.

Week of preparations and festivities in La Rochelle from May 1st to 8th:

After many months of preparing the boat in Rochefort and the crew with the GTA organization, we entered the fishing port reserved for us, which had been completely renovated. Little by little, all the boats arrived: a wonderful festive atmosphere with musicians in the tent village set up in front of the Aquarium, strollers and onlookers admiring the boats, and friends and supporters of each vessel.

We've had a lot of visits to our boat, which is attracting a lot of attention because of its originality. It's even more than at the Grand Pavois boat show! Many family and friends have come to encourage us. Anne-Marie, the wife of Gérard, our crewmate, has also joined us and brought Savoyard products... and a big helping hand with the final preparations. We also have to think about last-minute shopping and tidying up, which Gérard and I are doing. There are quite a few small details to sort out regarding the boat's equipment and the crew. We've had contact with the other boats, but it's still a bit limited, as everyone has a million things on their minds. However, the crews' evening is a great time for friendship and sharing, and the atmosphere is fantastic.

In the midst of parties, visits, and friends, it is difficult to truly take stock in serenity, and this week has seemed very tiring but also intense and rich in friendship.

Gilles, our son who's accompanying us to the Azores, arrived last night and is settling into life on the boat and the general atmosphere. We're attending the weather briefing, which is forecasting overcast skies and rain, but moderate winds. We'll see! Gilles is almost disappointed…

The pontoons are packed, you can barely get through. Tension is rising.

Thursday 8th and Friday 9th May, Day +1, 8:45 am

The departure is timed to the minute because of the tide and the opening of the lock. The Belem leaves first.

Guided by tugboats, it enters the old port, turns around, and leaves again, followed by all the GTA boats in single file. The immense crowd, packed onto the banks, cheers us. It's moving and magnificent: it brings a lump to our throats.

Among the spectators, we spot Papyrus, who, overcome by emotion, heat, and fatigue, will faint (something we'll only learn much later!). Many boats escort us on the water, notably the Cazaux's Sun Fast 3200.

It's a moment of great emotion and immense joy after all these months of preparation. In the setting sun, we leave La Rochelle behind, away from the noise and the crowds….

To celebrate our departure with an aperitif, we switched on the autopilot… which refused to work. Guy and Gilles tried to find the cause of the malfunction. Nothing, they couldn't find anything. So Guy decided to return to La Rochelle, which we did with heavy hearts, and it was in sadness that we arrived at Les Minimes… Geneviève and Anne-Marie joined us but couldn't really cheer us up: our hearts weren't in it.

9:30 a.m., Friday morning. The friendly guys from Pochon's came early, and after searching for a long time, they fixed it: it was just a poorly crimped wire, difficult to locate, hence the intermittent breakdowns! It's 9:30 when we set off again, under motor, in very gray, windless weather. Around 11:00 a.m., we landed a fish on the trolling line: a garfish with a turquoise spine, which we enjoyed with the champagne Françoise offered and the foie gras Gilles provided. That's it, we've found our cruising rhythm. Gilles gave us "Mutiny on the Bounty" so that the reading could serve as a counter-example "to the captain and his first mate"!

Friday, May 9th, Day +1

Joint adoption of "ecological" resolutions for waste and commitment from everyone: at night, we wear life jackets and harnesses, always.

In the evening, a small yellow bird (a wagtail?) comes to rest on the bridge: it is at home, not at all afraid.

Saturday, May 10th, Day 2

Néféli is going full speed ahead (7 knots with a Force 5/6). We can't reach the other participants on the VHF, except for Marvinest 6, who was about twenty miles away. We have another autopilot problem, this time with the ram. We're hesitating between stopping in A Coruña for repairs, but it's Saturday, tomorrow is Sunday, and Whit Monday, plus there's the risk of parts needing to be shipped; or going to the Azores and having the necessary parts sent to us. We'll see depending on the weather, which looks good. In any case, it's a real bummer... A big thank you to everyone who sent us messages of good wind and encouragement. It was really nice!

Sunday, May 11, Day 3, 45°08.6N - 8°16.6W

Marie-Françoise : This morning, the slight seasickness seems to be disappearing. We've got our sea legs! We're making good time (7 to 8 knots) in a rather choppy, grey sea, but we're very often escorted by little leaping dolphins. The boat has served as a stopover for many small birds, especially on the first day. The nights are cool, and we have to take turns steering because the autopilot isn't working anymore. Spirits are good, even though moving around the boat is a bit of a workout because of the waves. There are very few boats around us: a few cargo ships, but we'll soon be crossing the Cape Finisterre-Ushant shipping lane, and things are going to get lively. As for the other boats in the GTA (Grand Touring Authority), they're invisible: just one contact by VHF radio and an email from our friend Jean, who's stopped over in Spain due to technical problems.

Gilles : Since Saturday at 7 a.m., the wind has been steady at force 4-5-6 from the north, and we're sailing on a beam reach! Apart from the overcast skies and a bit of difficulty getting used to this new world, it's fantastic. And since the autopilot only works in light winds now, we've gone from leisurely sailing (chart table, keeping an eye on the autopilot) to sailing on the poop deck with spray and full gear. Dolphins are keeping us company, and birds are coming aboard to rest. Even the captain is forgetting Néféli's little youthful troubles. We're thinking of you. Send us texts; the sea is vast, and we're tiny!

Monday, May 12th, Day 4

Gilles : Since 3 a.m. this morning, the wind has dropped and we're motoring. The weather is still overcast, but our autopilot is working well in the calm, which is a relief. We're west of Cape Finisterre and heading for the Azores. We should encounter a small developing low-pressure system during the day and find winds from the southwest, then northwest. Last night, a tired swallow came to rest with us and left us this morning at dawn to continue its journey.

Marie-Françoise : Yesterday was a beautiful day of sailing. The boat was cruising at 7 knots, sometimes 8, often with a beautiful dolphin escort. It was a pleasure to steer, and we almost forgot about the autopilot malfunction. However, balance on board was a challenge, and we all ended up with a nice collection of bruises. The night was calm with little wind, and since 7 a.m., we've been motoring, alone on the open sea! We're finally getting into a sleep routine. Even during the day, all it takes is closing your eyes to fall asleep, as we only manage about 4 hours of sleep at night. We've left the Bay of Biscay, and we have 750 miles to go to reach the Azores. Life on board is wonderful. For example, our lunch: endive salad with apples, pork tenderloin with zucchini, an assortment of Savoy cheeses, apples, and real coffee with chocolate! Right now (it's 2 PM), Gilles is doing the dishes, Gérard is sleeping, Guy is repairing a door where a button has come loose.

Guy : A quick note about our route: after our 14-hour handicap at the start, we wanted to get as far away from the Bay of Biscay as possible and then avoid the notorious tip of the continental shelf off Finisterre. So, due west, then southwest.

Tuesday, May 13th, Day 5

Gilles : We encountered a small depression off Cape Finisterre, almost like something out of a textbook. Yesterday around 3 p.m., the southwest wind picked up and gradually strengthened from 11 to 16 knots. We sailed close-hauled under very heavy skies and a few heavy showers.

Dinner: pasta salad shared by the four of us at the table, with the boat hove-to. Then we set off again. Around 9 pm we encountered the cold front, the wind shifted WNW, finally bringing blue skies and beautiful cumulus clouds, some more or less erect and some more or less rainy. We spent the night close-hauled in winds of 15 to 25 knots (force 4 to 6) and choppy seas. We are therefore making progress on a more southerly route than the direct one, hoping for a more pronounced wind shift to the NW. It was the most uncomfortable night, but at least this morning we have clear skies.

Guy : Gilles, aka "Saint Bernobis," said it all about the low-pressure system and the first night, a "headwind" Atlantic crossing that was anything but restful. Today, it's going to be a real mess. Spirits are still high, and we're staying strong. We're really looking forward to getting out of this despite everything. We also have another leak, still between the anchor locker and the forward cabin. Oh dear!

Wednesday, May 14th, Day 6

Gilles : Yesterday the WNW wind continued to strengthen, along with the associated sea state, and we're currently sailing a long close-hauled leg to the SW (205-220°) with the staysail and three-reefed mainsail. Last night it reached 35 knots for about 8 hours and is now hovering around 30 knots. The sky has turned gray and rainy again. Fatigue is starting to set in, and our clothes are getting quite wet and salty. We feel like we're in a washing machine. Meals are becoming simpler (bolino-bolino…). We're counting on a gradual shift of the winds to the north so we can head for the Azores. We're still bailing water in the forward cabin, about half a bucket every two hours. It's particularly strenuous in the waves. A heavy helmet would be welcome!

Thursday, May 15th, Day 7

Marie-Françoise : It's sunrise over a calm sea! It's so refreshing after about 60 hours in the washing machine! The night was calm too, allowing us to sleep better and recover. The wind is more favorable in our direction, so we can rejoin the direct route thanks to Gilles' strategy of juggling the weather chart and our positions... If all goes well, we should arrive in the Azores on Sunday. The experience of prolonged bad weather, with winds up to 37 knots, waves crashing against the hull and creating spray, squalls following one after another, and the interior and clothes soaked, shows us that it's physically demanding because every action is a struggle (I meant to say difficult, but I fell asleep!!!)

Gilles : Well, she's fallen asleep at the keyboard, and it's no longer sunrise but 10:45, and it's Gilles taking up the pen before his 11 o'clock watch. Finally, a calm night. This morning, sunshine and an 11-knot northerly wind; we're speeding towards the Azores, clothes are drying, and the boat is getting some fresh air. Great! And what's more, oh miracle! I received the first flurry of messages from my little family.

Marie-Françoise : We're still going strong, and I even managed to prepare the ratatouille vegetables in the sunshine! Shorts will be here soon! Spirits are soaring thanks to the barometer. Thank you to everyone who sends messages: we're thrilled to have Iridium on board.

Guy : Continuing the saga, Saint Bernot must have been smiling at us juggling isobars and shifting low-pressure systems. In any case, we avoided a second worst-case scenario, and this morning it's pure relaxation! 6 knots downwind, perfect.

Friday, May 16th, Day 8

Gilles : Since we passed (phew, phew, phew!) north of the next low-pressure system, we've been on the longest beam reach of our careers: 24 hours of northerly winds varying from 11 to 20 knots, covering 166 nautical miles in 24 hours at a daily average of 6.9 knots. Yesterday we were sailing flat out with the mainsail and asymmetric spinnaker, reaching speeds of 8.9 knots. In the evening, we took down the spinnaker with 18 knots of wind. The old man's aging well! We can really have some fun! During the night, we switched to the mainsail and genoa and continued at full speed. So much so that Marie-Françoise woke up furious last night, jumped into the cockpit in her underwear to give us a piece of her mind and demand we slow down a bit!

Marie-Françoise : What a night! I felt like I was in a runaway locomotive, hurtling from side to side. I won't even tell you what it was like trying to sleep two to a room in the cabin. We ended up in a fit of laughter over our figure-eight knots. As Thomas says, they're tough on his granny! I couldn't get a wink of sleep except for this morning, so I'm in a much better mood. Gilles is thrilled by the exhilarating speed and he's fine-tuning the sails for us.

We had a lovely, relaxing day yesterday with the sun shining. The boat was going fast but very steadily. The autopilot works well when there aren't too many waves and we're not running downwind: it's a relief for the arms... or rather, the same arm, since it's always the same one. We spotted whales twice: once one spouted near the boat and we saw its tail, another time its back was floating above the surface. Nothing too spectacular yet. We're hoping for better! On the other hand, we very often have wonderful dolphin shows. As for fishing... luckily we have supplies. We switched to UTC this morning (two hours behind our time): it's more in line with the sun.

• SMS: Thomas: Aren't you ashamed of mistreating Mami like that?
• Raf & Paul: glad to know you're out of the washing machine.
• Ganguets: dream of your life or masochism?
• Eric: Come on, Uncle & Aunt, we're behind you, but Christelle threw up when she heard 35 knots of wind!
• Ed & Jack: We're ashamed to have all the sunshine here (in Belgium).

Saturday, May 17th, Day 9

Guy : It's Saturday, and Thierry shouldn't be working: we hadn't received the first message of encouragement of the day, from Cyprus, telling us how many boats are ahead of us.

NKE informed us that they were sending replacement parts for the autopilot; it remains to be seen how Fora will get the water inlet repaired. There's going to be a lot of work to do in the Azores.

Marie-Françoise : We're not making much progress towards the Azores, with just a light breeze and sunshine, after a very calm night under a full moon, sailing and motoring (which recharged our batteries, both electrically and physically!). We've covered almost 1200 nautical miles. A good shower will be nice. Will we still be able to walk straight? Others are dreaming of a draft beer in the shade of a pergola.

Yesterday afternoon we caught a tuna, what a find! A beautiful fish that will provide us with two excellent meals. Gilles and Gérard were overjoyed, except for the task of butchering it… Messages are pouring in from all our friends: it's very kind of them, and our nephew even found a solution to fix the porthole: take it apart. As he says, "that nephew's no fool!" We're in good spirits and have recovered from the fatigue of the difficult days. We're going to drink champagne at noon to celebrate our first catch and reaching 1200 miles. Gilles : Rest, fishing, sunshine, and catching up on lost sleep. It's sooooo cool! The high-pressure system is with us, and the route to the Azores is lengthening as our speed decreases. Kids, I've finally figured out how to fish for tuna. This summer, we're having one on the barbecue at anchor, a seasoned fisherman's promise! Ah! Pierrot, if you could have seen that! It makes up for 25 years of fishing failures!

Sunday, May 18th, Day 10

Marie-Françoise : After a calm, moonlit night, with a lot of engine use (we're in the middle of a high-pressure system), we sighted the island of São Miguel at 7:00 AM. Since then (it's 4:00 PM), we've been sailing upwind along the island, tacking back and forth, and the arrival in port seems to be taking forever. Only Gilles doesn't seem to want to arrive and is clinging to the helm!

A jellyfish with a sail-like shape, dozens of which we encountered, initially mistaking them for plastic bottles….

We just saw a whale that breathed for a long time at the surface before diving not far from the boat, and early this morning we caught a tuna (our second one) which made a great lunch. Gilles can't believe how good it was! We opened yet another bottle of champagne for the crew of Néféli and for the first leg of our journey.

We're happy with the crew, the boat, and the camaraderie. Messages are coming through and we're pleased, especially since we haven't seen or heard any GTA boats along this crossing.

Gilles : A small tuna caught this morning with Gérard for our last meal at sea on this leg. A final day close-hauled in a light westerly breeze, hugging the coast of this stunning volcanic island in the middle of the ocean. A whale hunt. A little party to celebrate the first 1350 nautical mile non-stop crossing for the entire crew and the boat. In short, a beautiful last day at sea before returning to civilization and the pleasure of hearing from you. It's 7:30 pm, we're entering the port of Ponta Delgada. Hip hip hooray!

Marie-Françoise: We finally arrived at 8 p.m., greeted by applause and trumpets. On Jeff 2, our neighbor, Hervé, Gérard, and his wife Monique invited us aboard with a (or several) ti' punch. After a shower, and with severe seasickness, everything was going smoothly! Pierre, our Canadian crew member, was waiting for us at the dock and immediately felt at ease, fitting in perfectly with the group. Véronique, aboard Jeff 2, had suffered a lot and was happy to arrive: she was looking for another berth, but she was glad to be out of the confines of the boat.

Night in port: we're all happy to be here and to have successfully completed this first leg. Many other crews will congratulate us on how well we did. After all, we're one of the smallest boats! I've completely abandoned the idea of giving up! Only Gilles is a little gloomy about stopping. It's hard having to work! In the following days, he'll chat with the "youngsters" on the other boats, interviewing them to find out how they managed to get away.

1350 miles covered at the loch, 135 miles daily average, 150 excluding the false start on May 8.

In Ponta Delgada: island of Sao Miguel 4-day stopover (from May 19 to 23)

Marie-Françoise : The five days spent ashore were quite busy: cleaning, repairs, a few errands, and time spent chatting with the other boats. Since there are few washing machines, waiting your turn allows for conversations and discussions with the other crews. You realize that there have been many problems with equipment, but also with people.

Many crews have changed partners due to personality clashes: "Trois Pipes" whose skipper couldn't stand the smoke; a very assertive female crew member, being the skipper at the Glénan sailing school, who clashed with her skipper who was going through a difficult period; the young skipper of another sailboat who was struggling to assert his authority over his crew, which consisted of his father and his father's friends…

We're lucky and things are going well on board. Let's keep our fingers crossed.

Another sailboat that's running way behind schedule and accumulating difficulties: fishing nets caught in the propeller, a stopover in Spain, and, towards the end of the journey: a crew member refuels the water tank just as the wind dies down, not to mention the difficult behavior of its owner. Technical problems too, even on the newest, most expensive, largest boats: so, I put ours into perspective and I'm less furious with Fora. Nevertheless, Guy, Gilles, Pierre, and Gérard are trying to fix the water leak: two disassemblies of the staysail chainplate whose connection to the deck wasn't sealed with Sikaflex; it's not enough: the bulkhead of the anchor locker is coming loose, and despite the patching, the leak will continue, albeit smaller! On the other hand, we received the defective part for the autopilot, and it will work perfectly now.

Problems with seasickness: on the Avel Breiz which had to disembark the two women on board, one of whom even had to be hospitalized because of the severity of her dehydration.

Good times: an evening in a typical restaurant where we ate fried or au gratin lulas (squid), washed down with the local Pico wine, strong in tannins. Lots of laughs with Pierre the Canadian, already a hit with everyone, with Véronique and Patrick (from Gorban, on a GIC ship: an international cruising group), with Gilles in top form… A waiter, tiny with puppet-like gestures and gait, eager and funny. A commedia dell'arte scene as we were leaving where he ended up in Pierre's arms (the big fat guy lifting the skinny little guy!!).

On Tuesday, we took a bus tour of the island, organized by the Azoreans, which was very interesting: the island is very green: pastures and very dense, almost tropical forests, with flowers everywhere: rhododendrons, hydrangeas, amaryllis, nasturtiums...

It's also volcanic, with fumaroles and a noticeable sulfur smell; our lunch was quite unique: they boil vegetables and meat for six hours in pots placed in geothermally heated earth. It was delicious, even with a slight aftertaste of sulfur, and was best enjoyed with a good local wine! There are also some stunning calderas and breathtaking, deep cirques. The lunch (a delicious cozido cooked in the volcanic earth) was provided in a beautiful setting.

The next day, a drive in Pierre's rental car towards the North. A pity, the fog and drizzle dulled the azure and green colors of the lake; dinner at the "dei émigréi" restaurant: a great atmosphere around the football match and delicious fried fish: bocca negra and alfonsin (red).

Good moment with the crews' aperitif on Thursday evening.

We end the evening with ice cream in the company of Véronique, Patrick, Valérie, in the village square.

Elizabeth, who is waiting for Renaude who is not arriving, must be comforted; She will finally arrive at midnight, towed by another boat.

On Friday, Gilles left, feeling quite down, and so did we: we would have loved to continue with him as it was so nice to be together. We went to the market (delicious pineapples, small bananas, and lots of vegetables, excellent beef), got a haircut, and then left in stages around 1 p.m.

Second stage: Ponta Delgada / Gaspé.

Friday May 23 (departure from Ponta Delgada at 1:15 p.m.)

Marie-Françoise : Some boats are leaving later, as all their problems haven't been resolved yet. For us, knock on wood, it should be fine... The weather is good for this departure. We're making a steady 5 knots and we just saw a turtle.

A slight pang of anxiety, a touch of worry despite the favorable weather.

We're sailing close-hauled in a variable and erratic wind, from 10 to 18 knots. It's very choppy and we need to get back into the rhythm. I'm feeling a bit nauseous, and so is Gérard. There are a few boats around us, to starboard, as night falls.

Guy : The crew is changing: Gilles has gone back to Toulouse, not enthusiastic about returning to work, but happy to have made this part of the journey with us (the pleasure is mutual), and Pierre, our new Canadian friend, has joined the ship for the longest leg.

We will resume our messages, more or less regularly, but don't worry if there are none for one or more days.

• SMS: Jany & Yves: UHT time, don't know it, unless it's the milkman's time.
• François: Happy birthday to Mams who never ceases to amaze me.
• Claire & Michel, Gilles, Thierry: Happy Mother's Day messages.

Sunday, May 25, Day 2, 37°34N - 30°34.7W, 12:00 UTC

Marie-Françoise : For now, light weather, light wind, mixed sky: right in the middle of an anticyclone!

Yesterday and night were relatively calm with occasional bursts of wind, but we have all sails up and furl the genoa a bit when it gets windier.

We ultimately decided not to stop at the other islands because of the wind direction and to avoid disrupting the cruising rhythm that has now been re-established. Pierre, our Canadian crew member, is settling in well on board and sharing his experiences with us. His Quebec expressions are sometimes confusing but often amusing (ours must have the same effect on him!).

At the same time yesterday, both our trolling lines broke, probably due to large fish. So today's meal will have to be from our reserves. We stocked up on vegetables and fruit before leaving, and the pineapples in particular are delicious.

We regularly receive messages from Thierry and Papyrus; but also from many others, thank you all, it's nice.

For geologists, today we are passing over the Mid-Atlantic Ridge: it's something, even if there's nothing visible on the surface. Personally, I'd rather not witness a volcanic eruption or the birth of an island live!

Happy Sunday everyone, and especially to all the mothers. Warmest regards and lots of kisses from the crew of Néféli.

Pierre , the Canadian crew member: Hello everyone, after 48 hours on board everything is going well, the watch schedule is becoming regular. It's quite easy because the weather is beautiful; 15 knots of wind a little close-hauled but no seas!

PS: Some people were caught by the milkman's hour... It was a trap!

Monday, May 26, Day 3, 38°00N - 32°55W

Guy : Yesterday was a great day, with a 3-4 Beaufort wind, everything up, calm sea, the boat was gliding on the water. Last night, dinner at the "Françou" crêperie: delicious savory crêpes, all that was missing was the cider (which we'd already drunk)...

Night watches spent gazing at the stars, letting Grumpy (the autopilot) take the helm. Crossed paths with two cruise ships 12 hours apart, and had VHF contact with the Jane, but apart from that, utter silence, the ocean seems deserted.

Denis Hugues, the race director, gave us the positions of the other sailboats yesterday: Destination Calais (a 40-footer) impressed us by gaining nearly 80 miles in just over 24 hours. It seems the fleet has split in two, one group heading towards the other Azores islands, the other further south to make the most of the winds that are expected to shift to the southwest. Today, there's still a light breeze of 4 knots; we're maintaining a westward course. Marie-Françoise : We're enjoying the good weather while it lasts; it could get more challenging in a few days. For Gilles, it's business as usual among the crew, who aren't exactly stellar at fishing at the moment! They had a good laugh at your message: "Pierre, in 2 days at sea, did you manage to turn Gégé into an extrovert?" and "Gégé, in 2 days at sea, did you find Pierre's 'Off' switch?". Today, it's sunbathing and relaxing. I have a feeling it won't last! The water is 22°C and we're hesitating to go swimming! Pierre had a saltwater shower last night before rinsing with fresh water in the cockpit... but he feels like a Canadian used to the cold!!!

Gérard : At Grand Sec, if you call me "The Fat Little One": I'm in the transatlantic crossing. Do not disturb, please.

Pierre : Hello Suzanne, I'm really looking forward to seeing you again, along with the children and the little ones, and of course all our friends. Nevertheless, I'm enjoying every moment of this transatlantic crossing. We've had three bites and, I'm a little ashamed to say, nothing in the cockpit! It's been completely calm and relaxing since last night... a light southwesterly breeze is slow to pick up. It will certainly be different in the Gulf. Gégé and Marie-Françoise complement each other perfectly in the galley! What feasts! I can't wait to get out to sea, otherwise my waistband won't hold!

Tuesday May 27 D+4 10:00 UT 38°16N - 35°04W

Marie-Françoise : Beautiful day yesterday, not very fast but very pleasant with a beautiful sea and a light wind (2-3 Beaufort).

Guy : A little acrobatics session: on autopilot, the wind shifts and we're hove-to. A complete turn to get going again, but I'd forgotten we had two lines trolling, one of them on a fishing rod. There's the line caught in the wind turbine. So here I am perched on the central aft balcony untangling everything, while Néféli gently gets underway again without the autopilot.

Apart from that, we encountered a whale that passed under the boat and swam alongside it, breathing, before diving. A large creature that must have been watching us. All this just as we received a message from Gilles saying that a sperm whale in rut had been spotted on Google 200 meters from Néféli!

We're getting back into the offshore rhythm with the night watches, which are wonderful so far, and the rest periods during the day. 700 miles to go to reach the "Icebergs" point at 40°N and 50°W. Today should be a bit more eventful than yesterday; we'll tell you all about it tomorrow. Hugs to everyone, and especially to our grandchildren who are sending us funny messages. Marie-Françoise (again): It's very choppy today, as we're sailing close-hauled with waves. It's hard to write. A big thank you to my children for their Mother's Day wishes.

Wednesday, May 28, Day 5, 10:20 UTC, 38°29N - 36°57W

Guy : Yesterday was a very uncomfortable day with a choppy sea, typical low-pressure system weather, and a wind that wasn't cooperating. We took advantage of a temporary westerly wind to tack southwest and get ourselves well below the 40th parallel. The night was relatively calm, but the early morning was marked by squalls and 30-knot winds: staysail and two reefs in the mainsail, and another rough course towards the "ice point" (40°N, 50°W) 600 miles from here. We're still receiving your messages of friendship, which is wonderful. Pierre was especially pleased to receive a special one from Suzanne.

That's all for today.

Thursday, May 29, Day 6, 11:17 UTC, 39°03N - 39°10W

The sailor, Marie-Françoise : This morning it's raining, but since Néféli is a good boat, we can keep watch from inside, and it washes the portholes and sails. We're making steady progress under sail, genoa and mainsail, with a wind of 10 to 15 knots. Yesterday the wind finally calmed down, and we spent the afternoon "on deck" (as Gérard put it). We even managed to take a shower in the cockpit, and the three men pampered themselves while waiting to encounter mermaids! Alas for them, they weren't out last night, and it ended in disappointment… We motored through the night. This morning, dolphins accompanied us at sunrise. The atmosphere on board is good, with a lot of mutual support. Your messages bring us closer to all of you and warm our hearts. We don't regret buying the Iridium satellite phone.

Friday, May 30, Day 7, 10:12 UTC, 39°32N- 41°28W

Guy : It's rough this morning: between 20 and 24 knots of wind, quite a rough sea from the SW, which is actually allowing us to head straight for the "ice point," at 7 knots over the water but 5 over the ground "thanks" to the Gulf Stream which, coming from the Azores, is making us lose between half a knot and a full knot at a minimum. We're heeling sharply, Néféli is plowing through the waves, handling the big ones very well, but hitting the small ones very hard.

A stark contrast to yesterday's almost Mediterranean weather, with its shifting winds (in one hour, 10 knots, 25 knots, 15 knots, then almost nothing, i.e., from full sail to one reefed mainsail, staysail, full sail again, then engine!). We almost had a nice bonito, but with another tangle of lines, we were pulling on one line while it was caught on another, so it got away! We've entered UTC-3 time zone; you can feel it in the very long days and the late dawn, but we'll celebrate tomorrow. Champagne and foie gras are out of the question today. Answers to questions: Autopilot OK, infiltration attempt failed on the port side, but news under the starboard toerail (GRRRRRRR). Morale OK, Papyrus, Elie, messages received, as well as the numerous messages received from all sides.

Saturday, May 31, Day 8, 2:00 PM UTC, 40°06N - 44°16W

Marie-Françoise : This morning is better: we've managed to reduce the humidity in the boat and regain our balance. The wind is less strong (around 10 knots) and the sea is calmer. As a result, we're making steady progress at 5 knots under spinnaker. "We're one step away from the G-spot" (as Pierre put it). Translation: we'll soon reach the Icebergs, which we need to pass to the south before heading back up towards the Gulf of St. Lawrence. (265 CAD miles, 3 days of sailing left)

Yesterday was a tough day: winds between 25 and 30 knots close-hauled, in a rough sea. The waves were pounding against the hull and sometimes crashing over the top. Thank goodness for the sprayhood which protected us well... but life on board was difficult. As for sleeping, it was like being in a washing machine again. Luckily, it calmed down around 3 a.m. this morning. We felt the power of the Atlantic and understood what St. Bernard the meteorologist called a "vigorous and sporty crossing." Life on board is great, and in times of difficulty, we stick together. No fishing yesterday, it would have been a nightmare! Maybe today? ... Big hugs to everyone, especially to our Greek friends and to Thierry and Esther who send us their daily messages. Edith and Jacques' Belgian chocolates comforted us during the difficult moments. Knowing that friends from all over the world are thinking of us is really nice. Have a good weekend everyone.

Sunday, June 1st, Day 9, 40°07.43 N - 46°20 W, 10:20 UTC

Marie-Françoise : We're making good time on a broad reach at 5.5 knots, 6 knots towards Point Glaces. We should reach it tomorrow in the late afternoon. Then it'll be the head back up towards the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with probably a change in temperature. For now, it's perfect: 20 to 25°C during the day, the water at 21.4°C. We're currently at the latitude and 1270 miles from New York (it would take us 10 days to get there! It's a dream). Yesterday we celebrated our 1,000-mile mark since leaving Ponta Delgada (1800 km in 9 days! Not bad at all!). Any excuse is a good one to enjoy a bottle of champagne, but what a treat! We rarely cross paths with other boats and we're tracking the other sailboats in the GTA by computer, but no contact is possible by VHF, even with the closest ones. However, last night a cuttlefish or a small squid landed on the deck and left us a large ink stain. How did it get away? Our provisions are well managed: we still have some Savoy tomme cheese and Pyrenees cheese, and delicious pineapples bought in the Azores. No scurvy or anorexia then! The crew is in good shape, the night watches are done alone, as there is no danger, which gives us plenty of rest. We hope to catch a fish in the coming days... Pierre : One or more text messages would be greatly appreciated!!! Gérard : Maelig Marie Amelie Faustine Romane Jeremie: Last night we saw the whale; she told me she would come to see you tonight: tidy your cabins (she's big).

Monday, June 2nd, Day 10, 10:30 UTC, 40°12.27 N - 48°52.71 W

Marie-Françoise : After yesterday's dream day (beautiful sea, Force 3/4 wind, boat gliding on the water, cleaning the deck and the skins), things are getting more challenging as we approach the Icebergs. From there, we should be able to head north without too much risk (in theory) of encountering icebergs (too bad about the ti-punch!).

Wind around 20 knots, we've just reefed the mainsail and reduced the genoa a bit. This allows us to make between 7 and 8 knots through the water, but only 5.5 knots over the ground, "thanks" to the Gulf Stream (2 knots) on the nose. Writing isn't very comfortable, and I need to be on the gimbal. So, it'll be brief today.

Note: - Iceberg Point: a checkpoint imposed by the GTA organization to avoid icebergs, which are still quite common at this time of year. Paradoxically nicknamed the G-Spot!

Tuesday, June 3, Day 11, 10:15 UTC, 41°14.7N - 51°22.2W

Guy : The day is off to a magnificent start: blue skies, sunshine, a steady southwest wind of around 20 knots, beam reach/broad reach, 7 knots through the water, 6 over the ground, mainsail with one reef, and 5 turns in the genoa. Just like yesterday when we were closer to the wind, with a few hours battling a 2-knot current on the nose. We were practically on the cusp of Point G, but decided against continuing the approach; it would have taken us too far south. We still celebrated crossing the 50°W meridian, and are now starting our journey back to Gaspé. The crew is in great shape. Gérard is having a little trouble sleeping, but that doesn't stop him from forming a fantastic cooking team with Marie-Françoise, who's whipping up amazing menus despite the swell that's rolling us from side to side! We're becoming champions of juggling and balance!! Personal messages: Pierre : Thank you all for the texts, I really appreciate it. The trip is going wonderfully... superb conditions and a dream team! To Thierry, the friend from Cyprus: always the first message of the day with your friendship.

Tuesday again. June 3rd , Marie-Françoise : At Gilles' request, who is clearly missing his boat so much, I'm putting pen to paper in a slightly more literary style. Which is commendable given the current waves and swell... indeed, we're making 7 knots on a broad reach, but with the Gulf Stream still in our faces, we're losing between 1 and 1.5 knots over the ground. We started our journey up to Gaspé yesterday at 6 p.m. and celebrated crossing the 50th parallel with an Armagnac. As of now, we're 677 miles from Gaspé. Since we're worried about arriving too fast (!), we're considering, if possible, stopping at the Magdalen Islands, a very beautiful place according to Pierre. We have one reef in the mainsail and the genoa partially furled. The boat is relatively stable considering the waves. For now, the weather is beautiful, and at midday we had a hearty rice salad on the terrace. But we can feel it's going to get cooler: the water temperature has dropped to 18°C, and the outside temperature is 22°C. Fishing-wise, not great. Two lines broke: perhaps because of a fish that was too big (!). Seabirds come to play with the lures and sometimes even peck at them. We saw a whale's tail. By gluing the pieces we saw, we should be able to reconstruct a whole one. The atmosphere on board is fantastic: Gérard and I are efficient in the kitchen, Guy and Pierre are doing the dishes and skippering the boat. We're missing a routing specialist! (message from Gérard to Gilles). We're having a good laugh, and when things get tough, we support each other. The nights with strong winds are quite nerve-wracking, but in the end, it goes well, and everyone manages to get some sleep despite some rather uncomfortable positions. Rain and fog are forecast further north, with strengthening winds. As the low-pressure system moves away, we hope to be on its tail end…

The boat's sailing well, the autopilot is a real comfort and we're so glad it's working. The wind turbine's working well too! Let's hope it stays that way!!! I'm going to get some fresh air after this balancing act. Lots and lots of love to everyone.

Wednesday, June 4, Day 12, 10:00 UTC, 42°37.6N - 53°35.2W

Marie-Françoise : This morning, fog and rain, or rather drizzle... after a very strong wind yesterday (25 to 28 knots) that forced us to reef the sails considerably. The water temperature dropped sharply (12°C), as did the air temperature (16°C), and we abruptly changed our clothing. Goodbye to the terrace, and "welcome to Canada," as Pierre put it, who is quite at ease in this climate. We need to keep a close watch because the radar has a connection problem (the antenna connection at the back of the screen unit)—bad timing! We're hoping to get it repaired in the Magdalen Islands, a fishing island where people constantly use their radar and where Pierre has been several times and knows well... otherwise, it'll have to be in Gaspé. Aside from that, we just had a delicious lunch of fresh bread and salted butter: a luxury made possible by the pre-baked bread that we put in the oven for 10 minutes. Lots of birds, storm petrels and Cory's shearwaters, keep us company even at night, which is lovely.

Thursday, June 5, Day 13, 11:30 UTC, 44°03.6N - 55°41.4W

Marie-Françoise : It's dead calm; we've been motoring for 24 hours. Thank goodness for the boat's ample fuel reserves! We finally managed to get the radar working again (thanks to Pierre's electrical training course, which taught us how to use Vaseline!). What a relief, as we were in thick fog most of the time, especially yesterday and part of the night. We didn't see any other boats, but we're approaching areas with a lot of fishing activity and the North Cape on Cape Breton Island, where we'll encounter the traffic entering and leaving the St. Lawrence River. It's a day for bathroom breaks and cooking. On the menu: apricot cake, a pan of fresh vegetables: carrots, turnips, celery, and cured ham. We're still getting plenty of birds, but the fishing is at a standstill. We're losing faith, and this morning we didn't even put out the lines. We have time to read, tinker, and think (!?)....

Gérard : All of the above is FALSE: In fact, it's horrific: 15-meter waves are crashing down on us (I just got hit by one)... Pierre is repairing the winches, it's very difficult. Wait, Guy is slipping... no, he's still with us. The sea is horrible, TERRIFYING, we've never seen such conditions. I'm giving all my belongings to Anne Marie; my MP3 player to my buddies; my Opinel knife to... DAMN! I just knocked over my Porto while slipping off my bunk. Marie Françoise is ready for a fight... But someone snatches the keyboard from my hands...

Goodbye Friends of My Life, I am dying….

Pierre : Can I add anything? Well, Gégé describes reality, but not necessarily today's reality! What he doesn't mention are the physical confrontations between MF and G, the duels between Guy and me, and the arguments between us... especially about me being a picky eater and him being a loudmouth! Since there are only three days left, if all goes well, we should all three—oops! four—arrive safely. I'll leave you now, because it's time for a little booze, and that's sacred!

Guy : Yes, we had a fight! … with a non-slip mat, it was hard enough as it was and it could have ended so badly (a blow to the eye can happen so easily). I also have to jealously guard, knife in hand, my dish rack that Gégé is trying to steal from me! It's really not the life of luxury!

Friday, June 6, Day 14, 45°22.19' N - 57°44.04' W, 10:15 UTC

Marie-Françoise : This morning, bright blue skies after yesterday's drizzle, fog, and rain. However, the temperature is dropping significantly (6°C last night): thank goodness for the RM (presumably referring to a specific feature or feature) which allows us to sail from inside with a bit of heat!! Those who are changing sails or reefing are enjoying coming back inside to the warmth!

We're sailing close-hauled, with 20-22 knots of wind, under a reefed mainsail and staysail, in a fairly choppy sea (the Grand Banks of Newfoundland). We're heading up towards the Magdalen Islands where we plan to stay for two days before going to Gaspé.

The radar is malfunctioning again, but luckily last night was clear. With the sun shining, I'm even more aware of being a tiny speck in the middle of the vast ocean, but without feeling anxious.

Our email yesterday generated many amusing responses: thank you all. Don't think, however, that the adventure ends in Gaspé. After a few days' break, the return trip up the St. Lawrence River, according to Pierre, is likely to be just as "invigorating".

Thanks to Loïc for the long messages, we're not worried about your move to 1°S, although a quick trip to the hairdresser might clear your head (as Grandpa would say). I encourage the other grandchildren to write to us.

Pierre : The Breton berth (the clamp) was sealed off last night: it's really rough and the leaks are starting again! Outside, I'm sure the sea spray freezes before it even reaches the boat! We're really getting a taste of the Grand Banks of Newfoundland; well, it's not the autumn storms, but it's still interesting! I tacked twice last night, almost risking my life because Gégé ended up on the floor both times... he hadn't strapped himself in to his bunk, too bad for him! This morning I'm keeping my distance when he has a knife in his hand!!

Gérard : The conditions are still extreme, only Pierre isn't frozen (that's normal, he's the only one with a Canadian jacket). Guy's EPOD is still tuned to Jacques and Bourvil (it's a real blast from the past for us: the gendarme's tagadatactic), and MF is like a guinea pig who's smoked all his straw. Hell continues: 45-degree heel, ice cubes everywhere, and nothing left in the holds. HORROR....

Guy : I promise, I'll change the scenery: "cozy night, divine night, night...."

Saturday, June 7, Day 15, 11:40 UTC, 46°51.7N - 60°02.3W

Gérard : This is ED Vit'd'mulet, live from the Canadian Coast Guard vessel where we're experiencing an exceptional situation. It seems there's a mutiny on the Néféli, which would be a natural outcome of the atmosphere on board these past few days. There's one mutineer according to the police, two according to the unions—the report is normal. But wait, I see the dinghy has been launched with two people on board, and get this: the line holding the dinghy in tow has just been cut. It's dramatic. What will become of the occupants of the dinghy? The full regalia has been replaced by protest banners; the teal hull is completely covered in red graffiti. The world's stock markets are collapsing; the CAC40 is down to just 30. Two planes are already heading straight for the mast, but they miss... My watch is over, I'm signing off. Over to you. Cheers! Pierre : You see, Cam, when it's a wet boat*, what can happen! I hope it's reversible because Gégé was doing quite well before. To my friend Jean, the CVL's commodore-in-chief, happy birthday; I only regret not being able to stop and shake your hand on this special day. I wish you better weather for the two events of the day than what the sea is sending us: 8°C, 20 knots (that's good), rain and fog (not so good). *Wet boat: a boat where alcohol consumption is permitted, as opposed to a dry boat where there is no alcohol on board.

Marie-Françoise : This is what the crew members do for fun during their watch shift. It's ridiculous!

Since last night we've had a very clear view of Cape Breton Island (with a town called Sydney) and we're approaching its North Cape (also called Cape Horn* (editor's note: the map shows "horn" opposite the North Cape; there's still some work to be done on English...).), which is now only 19 miles away; the thought of being on this side of the Atlantic is making us feel quite strange this morning! Guy and Pierre are attaching the Canadian and Quebec flags to the shrouds. The weather is overcast with possible rain on the way, but the boat is sailing well on a broad reach, at 6 knots and sometimes more.

We're starting to see cargo ships and fishing boats again. Luckily, visibility was good and we didn't need the radar (it was out of order). Yesterday, large, placid pilot whales, which we initially mistook for orcas, often accompanied us. In the evening, gulls were trying to catch the fishing line's lure. As I pulled it in, they seemed to be water-skiing on the line. We expect to arrive in the Magdalen Islands (at the Magdalen Islanders' place) in the early hours of the morning if all goes well; otherwise, we'll have to wait until daylight to land.

The Magdalen Islands

Log reading: 2035 miles traveled from Ponta Delgada, only 1914 on GPS, an average of 127 knots over water and 120 over ground.

Sunday, June 8, Day 16, 12:00 PM local time, 3:00 PM UTC

Port of Cap-aux-Meules, Magdalen Islands.

Marie-Françoise : We've made it! We're in the Magdalen Islands, docked since last night. We're in Quebec, on the other side of the Atlantic, and truly happy to have successfully completed the transatlantic crossing in fairly good weather conditions and with a perfect crew. We'll probably leave again on Tuesday for Gaspé, and there are about 150 miles left.

It's not exactly a heatwave (7°C) with occasional drizzle and quite a bit of wind. But Pierre managed to get us a car through a friend of his, and we're going to take a drive around the island and eat some lobster (it's the local specialty, and we saw loads of fishermen setting their lobster pots last night). Then Guy will be flying to fix the radar.

After our long crossing, the unlimited hot shower was most welcome. We were able to complete customs formalities here, which will simplify our arrival in Gaspé. We're completely disoriented in terms of time, meals, and being on land in an unfamiliar place. But we feel a great sense of inner joy at having made it this far.

The stopover was truly delightful. The locals, extremely welcoming, make contact easily. Some amazing encounters:

"Docile," a young woman who strikes up a conversation with me quite naturally. A nurse, she works on the small island opposite. She's fallen in love with a Frenchman, Alain, who arrived one day on a passing ship. He's unsure where to settle, and she's trying to keep him around by helping him get his Canadian papers and visa, but he seems quite lost. She desperately needs to talk and escape, no doubt, and lives in constant fear that he'll leave again. They both come aboard to spend some time with us. Along with a man named Gilles (a former crew member of the Picrate) who bought a boat in Detroit and sailed it up the American lakes and the St. Lawrence River, and who's about to head to La Rochelle.

A very typical port captain who lives on his boat part of the year alone (he goes to see his wife from time to time!) and who named his boat CATJ (= It's yours Julien) because his wife didn't want to hear about it.

Robert and his wife, Pierre's work acquaintances, spontaneously lent us their car and joined us for dinner. We visited their warm, all-wood house, inside and out. He had set up a superbly equipped woodworking workshop next to his house, which we also toured. Thanks to them and Pierre, we were able to visit the island, which Pierre had already visited and whose treasures he showed us.

There are three GTA boats in the harbor: Matin des Îles and Hobby. We chatted with the crews, especially Nicole, the Quebecer, who was having a bit of a tough time with the three rather macho men on Matin des Îles. We all got along well. We had a great time at Café de La Grave, a former general store converted into a music café, and a delicious lobster dinner! The brightly colored wooden houses are perched on the grass without any separation and look like models. The wind is blowing, and the air is drizzly and gray. Winter must be tough here: it feels like we're at the ends of the earth!

It's a fishing island primarily focused on lobster. We were able to taste some in a fishermen's cafe, delicious, and we bought some on our return from fishing at the port to eat on the boat tonight or tomorrow! With the seafood and local mussels, it was a gastronomic feast on board! Another local specialty: very young fiddleheads that are steamed, called "fiddleheads".

In the afternoon, a drive to explore the islands, linked by a long dune at the water's edge. A visit to a herring smokehouse (herring was once a resource for the island, but now there are hardly any left in their nets due to overfishing). A huge fishing port specializing in lobster fishing on Grande Entrée Island.

Pink sandstone cliffs, battered and eroded by the sea, and long stretches of dunes connecting fragments of islands. All this in an atmosphere of wind, fog, drizzle, and occasional bursts of sunshine.

Seabirds everywhere, especially gannets. Extremely welcoming and talkative people, eager to connect and chat.

The Madeleine-Gaspé region and the St. Lawrence River

Tuesday, June 10, Day 18: Departure from the Magdalen Islands towards Gaspé. 10:00 local time. 14:00 UTC.

Marie-Françoise : We're back at sea for the 180 miles to Gaspé, where we should arrive tomorrow late afternoon. The sky is overcast and the temperature isn't very warm. For now, we're motoring until we leave the islands; after that, we should be sailing downwind.

Wednesday, June 11, Day 19, 48°11N - 63°37W

Marie-Françoise : End of my watch. We're approaching the Canadian coast and Gaspé, where we'll arrive this evening. The night was calm (relatively speaking, with gusts up to 30 knots) despite some unpleasant rolling since we're almost running downwind, and around 5 a.m., some heavy downpours. Luckily, we can keep watch from inside!

Guy was able to repair the radar: it was a belt that had come off its pulley, probably because of the bouncing the boat made when we were sailing upwind.

We're crossing into our last time zone today, 6 hours behind Paris. Last night we celebrated it with Pierre and Suzanne's wedding anniversary… with champagne and a lobster each!

Gérard : Good night everyone. For us it's 5 o'clock. NEFELI is definitely out of it, the sirens are going to get dressed. It's 5 o'clock and I'm not sleepy. Pierre : It was a little fantastic and very kind to celebrate my wedding anniversary; only Suzanne was missing!!! We'll celebrate again when we see each other!

Thursday, June 12, Port of Gaspé, 11:00 AM local time

Marie-Françoise : We arrived at the Gaspé marina yesterday evening around 8 p.m. Twenty boats are already there, and the welcome from both the Canadians and our friends was very friendly. Today, they're forecasting strong winds, so we have to remove anything from the boat that might catch the wind, but we're very happy to be in port. The other, heavier boats have to anchor because the docks aren't strong enough. We were tired last night with quite severe seasickness, especially me, but today we're feeling fine.

A very pleasant stop in Gaspé: June 12th to 15th

Due to a predicted gale, we (along with Jeff 2 and Bikini) are the only ones remaining at the dock, tied down by several lines. The others have to go to anchor in the bay.

A very warm welcome: barbecues are set up in the harbor master's office for our use, and any problems, like the gas issue, are quickly resolved with someone to help us out. There are many visitors on the boat, making conversation easy… the baker delivers fresh baguettes and croissants every morning. A bus tour of Forillon National Park is organized for us: very dense forests, where we spot a bear cub and a porcupine, Cap Gaspé with its cliffs where seabirds and guillemots swirl, and seals bask on the rocks.

In the evening, the show by Laurence Jalbert and local choirs attracts all the Gaspé residents and it's a party!

The next day, Pierre-Yves's "godfather" from Destination Calais suggested a minibus trip to Percé. It was Gérard, a university professor of adventure tourism (a specialty he developed himself, training guides for this type of tourism from all over the world). A keen sea kayaker and cross-country skier, he lives in a typical old wooden house surrounded by nature, and in winter, he skis across the bay! An extraordinary character, completely at one with nature, and extremely open and pleasant. The trip was beautiful: a large bay with its river, birds, and vibrant colors, then we emerged onto the Percé rock and, opposite, Bonne Aventure Island, home to thousands of gannets. At Café Couleur, we admired the naive and very colorful paintings of Gilles Côté, a well-known artist in the Gaspé Peninsula. We had a lovely, very convivial evening with Jean at the Brise-Bise restaurant, enjoying fresh shrimp and cod.

The next day, we tasted sea crab at noon: it was excellent! In the evening, a grand crew supper with local bouillabaisse and, above all, a very folkloric show: "The Old Guard": a "singing-pedestrian" with his harmonica, a diatonic accordion played by an impassive puppet, and the ringmaster on the violin. Laurence Jalbert, a well-known and beloved Gaspé native, performed again, followed by "Les Moules Marinières," rock singers who created a fantastic atmosphere. Everyone danced.

The sailors' wives arrived on the evening flight: Anne-Marie, the blonde bombshell from Destination Calais, Gérard's wife, who came to join us, Geneviève, and Marie for Renaude. They all contributed to the end of the very successful evening. We have fond memories of the warmth and kindness of the welcome we received in Gaspé.

Up the St. Lawrence River.

Sunday, June 15, Day 23, 3 p.m. local time. Start of the St. Lawrence River

Marie-Françoise : We set off again this morning around 10 o'clock from Gaspé in a flotilla in an extraordinary atmosphere.

We are currently motoring under a low, grey sky; we have passed the Gaspé Peninsula and are really entering the St. Lawrence River, but it is very wide (over 100 km) at this point and we cannot see the other shore.

Our first leg takes us to Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, which is about 140 miles and therefore an overnight sail and part of tomorrow; Pierre : It smells like home... see you soon in Quebec City!!

Monday, June 16th, Day 24

On the St. Lawrence River, near Sainte-Anne-des-Monts. Marie-Françoise : We've been sailing since yesterday morning, first leaving Gaspé Bay and then following the south shore of the St. Lawrence. There was little wind last night, but now we have a good tailwind, which is allowing us to make progress despite a 1.5 to 2 knot current against us. Since this type of wind is exceptional, we're going to take advantage of it and sail up to Rimouski, where we'll probably arrive tomorrow morning. The coast is a green mountain, covered in dense forests, where a few villages with white or multicolored houses are nestled. We spotted a whale yesterday at sunset, but by the time I got the camcorder, it had dived.

It feels very strange to no longer be in the open sea and to continue to see other boats from the group, whereas on the sea we were almost immediately alone.

Since yesterday, Pierre's teeth have grown, as he's now our "Sea Wolf," one of those Canadian sailors who embarked in Gaspé to accompany the fleet to Quebec City. We were lucky enough to have our own since Ponta Delgada. Life on board is still great, with an extra crew member, and we're enjoying sunshine even if the air is chilly. A big thank you to all the friends who sent us messages to our @free.fr email address; we'll reply as soon as we get back.

In Rimouski.

Friday, June 20, Day 28, 2:23 PM UTC, 10:23 AM local time, 48°18.1'N - 69°15.9'W

Guy : a quick update to give you some news after this "long" silence.

Taking advantage of a rather exceptional easterly wind which facilitated our journey up the river, we had decided to skip the stage of Sainte Anne des Monts.

A fatal error, not for navigation, because after a 230-mile leg to the loch, we arrived in Rimouski just before the rain, but especially for the welcome in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, which, according to the participants who stopped there, was truly incredible in its warmth and quality. The town's "mayor" is a woman of extraordinary dynamism, bursting into song with humor, and moving everyone to tears! In Rimouski, the welcome was the same, but impossible to compete...

We left this morning at 4 o'clock towards the Saguenay River, first to see the whales and belugas that pass at its mouth, then to go up the river to the Bay of Eternity about thirty miles upstream where the landscape would be striking, one of the most beautiful in the region.

After torrential downpours and thunderstorms (but we were in port), the weather remained mild for this upwind leg, which could be very difficult with a current and headwind. We continued under motor, as the apparent wind was too light to even hoist a spinnaker!

We spent a few evenings with the "sea dogs" from the other boats and of course our own, who now wears his beautiful cap, and the Quebecois humor, quite scathing, aided by a good Armagnac, a gift from Gilles, made us all laugh out loud.

The arrival in Quebec City is scheduled for the afternoon of June 24th, with great fanfare (a fireboat will precede the fleet). Perhaps you'll be able to see it on the airwaves... We'll let you know if we have any further details.

We are now eager to arrive and meet our friends from Canada, Huguette and Marcel, our godson Pascal and his little family, and of course Suzanne, Pierre's sweetheart.... Gérard : Until now we could doubt: is it a sea? is it a river? but today we see the other bank and I am waiting with bated breath for the whales.

Tuesday, June 24th, day +32 or day +47 since our departure from La Rochelle.

Marie-Françoise : We're in Cap-à-l'Aigle and leaving tonight for Quebec City where we're scheduled to participate in a parade before numerous dignitaries and undoubtedly a huge crowd. The trip up the St. Lawrence River went well, although we often had to motor, and these past few days we've had intermittent fog and rain.

However, we spent two days on the Saguenay Fjord, hoping to see belugas, even from a great distance, but we only saw fin whales quite close up and lots of seals. We spent a night anchored in a very beautiful and wild bay (Eternity Bay), with high, wooded cliffs. Since we arrived after a heavy storm, we saw an impressively large moose on the beach.

The welcome at the stops is always extremely warm with organized visits, speeches, charming and talented Quebec singers... and the pleasure of exchanging with the local Canadians who are always ready to do so.

Anne-Marie : Don't look for us on the GTA website anymore, we've returned our beacon. We'll be at the port of Quebec. As for me, I played hide-and-seek with the whales and... they won, except for one. Kisses.

The Bay of Eternity.

In Quebec!

Sunday, June 29th. Last message to forward.

Marie-Françoise : That's it, we're in Quebec City!

The arrival was very moving and magnificent, a truly great moment: two hours sailing up the St. Lawrence River along the city, all the boats, decked out in a parade, one after the other, sailing past the city's docks before an impressive crowd that applauded, amidst the Canadian boats that had accompanied us. All this against the wind and the current, but with the sun (which we've sorely missed since...).

What's a shame is that the fleet is then split in two, one part in the old port, right in the city, and the others, including us, at the yacht club marina, outside the city. Since the city is celebrating, it's a real pity! And the adventure of the Great Crossing ends rather abruptly. On the other hand, there are great festivities surrounding the 400th anniversary: every evening, for example, a projection on the walls of enormous silos, forming a giant screen, tells the story of Quebec: it's quite extraordinary! There are also plenty of free shows and street entertainment... The last few days on the St. Lawrence River have been a bit trying: long stretches, mostly under motor, due to the strong winds and currents, often contrary depending on the tides. At each stop, there were many visits and welcome evenings, pleasant but too brief. As a result, we're now experiencing a bit of a dip in energy and vitality! And so, a wonderful maritime adventure has come to an end. We are deeply happy to have been able to complete this crossing and to have done so in such good conditions. It was a truly enriching experience on a personal level, both in life aboard Néféli and with all the interactions and exchanges between crews, and with the Azoreans and Canadians we met. Of course, we are a little disoriented now that everything is stopping and so many are heading off in all directions. A little tired too, now that the tension has subsided.

All the text messages we received were a real joy, a pleasure to share this extraordinary experience with those who love us. The little notification sound when we received a message was always a nice moment.

We're stopping the Iridium. We're taking the boat out of the water on July 3rd and continuing our land-based sightseeing with Canadian friends: more adventures await! Anne-Marie : After exploring a bit of Quebec City and the surrounding area and enjoying a few shows, we're going to take a short trip to Montreal. Tired of waiting for a bus that never came, we hitchhiked to the train station and a car stopped. After a few words, our plans changed: we're leaving this afternoon with them for Montreal. The Canadian summer has passed even faster than in Haute-Savoie. It started on the 26th and ended on the 27th. Umbrellas are still essential, and large ones are preferable. Gérard : The NEFELI adventure is over, I'm bleeding from the pain! Ouch! But the experience continues because I'm boarding Stésyl, an Oceanis 440, for a Back to Basics trip. The atmosphere might not be the same... It will surely be harder! To everyone : And a big thank you to Papyrus and François for relaying our messages.

La Rochelle – Quebec.

From May 8 to June 24, 2008.

4,000 miles travelled on the water.